10 Vital Spring Houseplant Care Practices For Thriving Plants
Spring houseplant care starts at different times depending on the different geographic locations.
In some areas, Spring starts as early as March, while in others, like the Northern regions, plants won’t start growing until late April, or even May!
So, how would one know when is the right time to start Spring houseplant care?
Great question!
Despite living in consistent temperature conditions and being sheltered from the elements, indoor plants can sense changes in seasons.
The difference is all in the quality of natural light.
Even indoor plants are affected by the subtle and gradual changes in natural light throughout the year. These light changes trigger their system to either slow their growth down or even go dormant in Winter, or to resume growth in Spring.
So, when you start noticing changes in your houseplants, (such as new leaves and stems growth), you’ll know Spring has finally arrived and that it’s time to start Spring houseplant care!
This seasonal care consists of a series of practices that are fundamental for the health of plants.
Some of these practices can be performed in Winter only if necessary for the survival of the plant. However, if no pests or diseases are threatening your plant, I strongly recommend you hold on tight until Spring before intervening!
Plants slow their growth down or go dormant in Winter and disrupting their natural cycle, can actually cause a shock and do more damage than good.
Let’s now take a look at these 10 vital Spring care practices for thriving houseplants!
1. pests and diseases check
Pests and disease check is my number one Spring houseplant care practice because it will determine what I am going to do with the plant.
This check can actually, and should actually be performed year round because the presence of pests or diseases are the ONLY reason why you want to repot a plant outside Spring!
So before you decide to repot, prune or do anything else, check your plant for pests.
Grab your plant, go near a good source of natural light and start checking the leaves, both the top and underside for any suspicious sign; sticky spots, tiny webs where the leaf attaches to the stem, tiny bugs, fluffy bugs, and so on…
Then, check the top soil, do you see any white fluff, any tiny bug moving?
Then, remove the entire plant from its pot and look at the roots. Anything moving?
Are the roots looking healthy or are they rotting and falling apart?
If you found pests on the leaves, depending on the gravity of the situation, you may either need to trim some leaves off, or simply spray with either natural pest repellents such as diluted neem oil, or plain ol’ pesticide.
If the trouble spot is the soil, then you need to remove as much soil as possible from the rootball and completely rinse off the roots in water in order to remove as much pest as possible.
Repot your plant in a pot with drainage holes, using fresh soil mixed with some perlite to add drainage to the mix, (mix 4 part soil to 1 part perlite).
Drainage is critical for the health of plants. In-fact, many houseplants pests and diseases are caused by excessive moisture due to a combination of over-watering and poor drainage.
During this process you may notice that your plant’s roots have outgrown the pot and that you need to upsize the pot. Read practice 2 here below to learn more about proper pot sizing.
Do you see the lovely gnats squirming all around the topsoil of this Pilea pot? The only effective solution to remove these bugs, is to discard all the soil, wash the rootball under water and use a fresh mix.
2. Repot or upsize
Repotting is the most common Spring houseplant care practice.
However, not everyone understands the difference between repotting and upsizing.
Repotting is the act of placing a plant into a different pot, but not necessarily a bigger pot. That’s because not every plant needs a bigger pot.
Upsizing means placing a plant in a bigger pot. But how big is also very important.
Let’s start by saying that every plant should be repotted once a year, NOT necessarily to be placed into a bigger pot, but to replace its old, nutrients depleted soil with a fresh mix.
How do you determine if your plant needs a bigger pot?
To start with, when in doubt, you should do some research on your plant. In-fact, some plants LOVE to be root bound and to have their roots crammed into their pot. Peace Lilies, for example, won’t grow their beautiful specialized white leaf unless their roots start to feel tight into their pot.
Other plants, like the Heartleaf Philodendron, have smaller roots compared to the length and fullness of their trailing stems. If you think your beautiful trailing Philodendron needs to be upsized because the stems are growing so full and long, you may be wrong. Check out its roots! They may still be small!
If you think about it, it makes sense. The bigger the pot, the more soil it can contain. The more soil it can contain, the more water it can retain. Imagine having a small rootball into a big pot full of wet soil. The roots are going to get crashed under the heavy mass of wet soil, with very little chance to breath…
So, before you rush into upsizing your pot, research your plant and check the rootball size.
Are the roots sticking out from the drainage hole? If yes, it’s time to upsize.
Remove the pot and observe the roots. If there are more roots than soil, its time to upsize.
If the roots are circling the bottom of the pot, is also time to upsize.
Otherwise, simply replace the soil with a fresh batch!
It’s important to know that, even when you are upsizing, you shouldn’t go too drastic!
All your plant need is one, max two sizes bigger pot than its original one.
For example; if your plant has outgrown a 4″ pot, you want to upsize it to a 6″ pot, not 8″.
Click here for more detailed informations on repotting plants; why, when and how.
This is a Peace Lily rootball. Peace Lilies are know to enjoy having crammed roots. However, in this case, there are more roots than soil in the pot. It’s time to upsize.
In this case the roots are growing out of the drainage hole, and even circling the saucer placed under the pot. It’s definitely time to upsize.
3. trimming & pruning
Trimming decaying, or even dead flowers and leaves can be done any time of year.
In-fact, it is quite beneficial to the plants. Did you know that plants still spend energy towards decaying flowers and leaves? Diverting such energy towards new growth, or simply to maintain good health is definitely the right thing to do even in Winter.
However, pruning is definitely a Spring houseplant care practice.
For the same reason why you want to wait to repot until Spring, (unless it’s a health emergency), pruning during the slow growth or dormant season can shock and damage plants.
There are two ways to prune plants and they are done for different reasons. They should not be done in the same season. It is too much for the plant to take.
- Stem pruning; is generally performed on trailing plants that have developed too long and leggy stems. Pruning no more than 30% of the stems at different lengths will tremendously improve the plant’s health, making it even fuller! Stem pruning is also used to shape certain type of plants that are not necessarily trailing, such as bonsais, and Jade Plants. Click here to read more about the benefits of pruning, and the proper way to do it.
- Root pruning; is mostly performed on tall and large plants in order to maintain and reduce the growth of the plant. Plants such as Fiddle Leaf Figs, and Strelitzias, tend to grow really big over time. When they start to outgrow even the biggest size pot and your living room vaulted ceiling, you can contain their growth and size by pruning their roots. This practice will allow you to keep your plant in the same pot year after year, without sacrificing its health. You can also root prune small and medium plants that you simply don’t want to over-grow or want to keep into the same pot. To learn more about root pruning, read about my experience root pruning my Giant Fiddle Leaf Fig.
String of Bananas grow really fast! I have been pruning mine regularly in order to make the actual plant fuller.
Sometime the rootball is too tight and tangled and it’s pretty much impossible to pull the roots apart to trim them individually. You can simply cut sections of the rootball with a sharp knife.
4. propagating plants
Propagating plants is a simple by-product of pruning them.
The only difference is that when you prune with the intention of propagating the cuts, you need to be strategic on where you actually cut the stems.
Propagating is the act of rooting the stems you prune off from the mother plant.
In the great majority of plants, roots grow from the nodes, (or tubers), which are the protrusions along the stems where the leaves are generally attached.
All you have to do when you prune plants with the additional intention to propagate the cuttings, is to cut the stems between two nodes.
Such nodes will grow roots over time.
Some cuttings can be placed in soil right away, as soon as they are cut from the mother plant, and they will grow roots no problem.
Others will require a rooting period in water.
Succulents need two to three days to form a callous before being placed in water to root.
A callous is nothing but a “scar” where the cut was performed. If succulents are placed in water right away, with the “open wound” from cutting, they will rot.
You’ll need to research the type of plant you intend to propagate to learn the best way to grow its roots.
Once these cuttings have formed roots that are developed enough to be planted, you can either plant them in a new pot as a separate plant, or you can add it to the mother plant pot to make it even fuller. OR, you can even let your plant grow in water! Did you know that some houseplants can successfully grow in water? Check it out!
Prayer Plant roots growing in water.
I actually never planted this Maranta in soil and I kept it as a houseplant growing in water.
These two Monstera cuttings are the results of a big pruning session last Summer.
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5. clean the leaves
Cleaning houseplant leaves can be done any time, really.
However, if you never do it, Spring is definitely a good time to do it.
This Spring houseplant care practice is quite important; not just for the look of the plant, but mostly for its health.
Over time, both dust and water stains accumulate on the leaves’ surface, creating a barrier that prevents the plant from performing photosynthesis effectively.
If a plant cannot perform photosynthesis effectively, it cannot be healthy.
In addition to promoting effective photosynthesis, cleaning leaves is beneficial for the removal of unwanted pests.
If it wasn’t for cleaning my Monstera’s leaves, I would have never noticed the beginning of a Spider Mites’ infestation at the leaves connection with the stems.
You can dilute 5ml of Neem Oil in 1L of water, (add a drop of dish soap to mix the Neem Oil with water), and pour the mix into a spray bottle.
Spray the solution on the leaves and gently wipe the top and under side of the leaves with a cloth.
You can use this mix to polish and to eliminate pests at the same time!
Alternatively, if you don’t have pests, nor have Neem Oil handy, you can click here to read this article on How to Clean Houseplant Leaves, and to find a natural and simple home made recipe to clean leaves.
Be careful though, not all plants can have their leaves cleaned!
Plants with fuzzy leaves, cannot be cleaned the same way plants with smooth leaves are!
Before and after cleaning of a Stromanthe Triostar leaf.
Cleaning of a Monstera leaf.
6. reposition
You may wonder why repositioning is a Spring houseplant care practice.
The answer is quite simple.
As the season changes, so does the natural light; the sun inclination and its strength are different. Days are longer too, providing plants with more light exposure throughout the day.
A South facing window may be ideal for a certain plant in a short Winter day, where it can soak up a few hours of weak direct light in the morning.
However, this same spot could be too bright and scorching in a longer Summer day, when the sun is not only out for more hours, but is also stronger.
South windows are wonderful in Winter, and can be excellent in Summer too if the natural light is screened by a sheer curtain.
West windows are always natural light heavy, no matter the season. Make sure you place your succulents and cacti near these windows.
North and East facing windows are safe at all time.
Basically, you need to move your plants around based on their species’ light need.
My 14 years old Fiddle Leaf Fig sits by a South facing window year round. Ironically, this plant does not like to be moved, so pick a spot that works well for it and never, ever move it!
7. water more frequently
As plants wake up from their dormancy period and start growing new stems and leaves, they need more water to support their growth.
The need for more water is a function of changes in natural light and temperatures.
As the days get longer, plants use more light to photosynthesize. More light exposure and more growth, translates into more moisture absorption.
When the temperatures change outside, we adjust our thermostat to feel comfortable inside. In most homes, this means cranking the air conditioning in late Spring and Summer, which significantly dries out the indoor air.
This is when the soil dries out more quickly and plants require more frequent watering.
Be cautious though! It’s still very important to not over-water your plants.
Make sure that all your plants are planted in containers with drainage holes and a good draining mix, and that they all have a saucer to collect excess water when watering them. Discard the excess water left in any of the saucers after two hours from watering your plants. Pooling stagnant water can be very damaging to your plants.
8. resume fertilizing
Another good Spring houseplant care practice that goes hand in hand with increasing watering frequency, is increasing or resuming fertilization, depending on the plant species.
As plants wake up from their dormancy and start using a lot of energy to grow new leaves and stems, they need an extra boost of nutrients in addition to those found in the fresh soil and water.
This is when fertilizers come in.
Depending on the type of plant you are caring for, the fertilization frequency changes.
Some plants only get fertilized twice a year, and never in Winter, others benefit from bi-weekly fertilization during the growing months and monthly during the Winter.
There are different types of fertilizers; natural products or synthetic fertilizers.
I use both in different seasons and for different reasons;
I use Schultz Plant Food Plus™ All Purpose Plant Food 10-15-10 all Summer long on all plants. I just dilute 7 drops in 1L of water to water all my plants every two weeks.
I use Plant Vitamins Thrive in Winter for those plants that like to be fed even during the slow months. It’s an organic product so I am confident it won’t burn the roots and leaves.
I use Plant Vitamins Boost in Spring when I repot all my plants.
If you are worried about the fertilizer being too aggressive on certain sensitive plants, you can start by using half the recommended dose in Spring and slowly increase to the full amount by Summer.
Pileas are good feeders in both Spring and Winter. I actually feed my Pileas throughout the Winter too. I fertilize them once a month with the Plant Vitamins Thrive in Winter and every two weeks in Spring and Summer with the Schultz product.
9. keep plants away from cold drafts
Keeping plants away from cold drafts, is not just a Spring houseplant care practice. In-fact, keeping any plant away from cold or hot drafts is a good practice all year round.
It’s particularly important in Summer though, especially if you are one of those people that cranks the air conditioning to North Pole levels.
Make sure your plants are kept far enough from drafty windows and doors, as well as air conditioning or heating vents and radiators.
Cold drafts can damage those tropical plants and succulents that are native to warmer climates.
Air conditioning or heating vents blow excessively cold or hot air into the plant’s leaves drying them up. Leaves will go yellow and fall.
Proximity to these vents will also dry out the soil quickly requiring even more frequent watering and higher humidity! Get those spray bottles out and start misting!!!
Can you see that vent on the left? It’s clearly blowing too much air into the Pilea’s leaves!
10. acclimatize to the outdoor (or not!)
Last but not least, if you are REALLY keen on moving your plants outside for the Summer, you need to acclimatize them the same way you do before bringing them back inside in the Fall. (I wrote a full article about Safely Bringing Plants Indoors For The Winter).
I am going to be completely honest with you; I am not keen about this practice.
I’ve had way too many heartbreaking experiences with my plants going outdoors for the Summer to come back indoors infested with bugs and never recovering from it.
However, since many people love to give their plants a Summer vacation en plein air, I’d rather giving you the proper way to prepare them for it, than skipping this practice all together and let you experience what I did without knowledge.
It is important you acclimatize your plants to being outdoors. Simple.
Your plants go from the filtered and protected environment of your home to the harsh and exposed outdoors.
The natural light is not longer filtered by windows and sheer curtains. Sun, heavy rain and wind, (and pests of course), become a sudden shock for plants.
Start with small steps.
Even if your plant was used to a lot of bright light inside, start by placing it under a sheltered area for a few days. Then place it under the sun just in the morning for another few days to see how it reacts to it, and gradually expose it to the location you had originally intended for it.
Always watch for the overnight temperatures and the particular plant temperature tolerance.
And most of all, make sure you follow all the proper steps described in my article on Safely Bringing Plants Indoors For The Winter before you bring an infestation inside your home!
I really hope you found these Spring houseplant care practices helpful and that you’ve gained the knowledge you need to tackle your Spring plant projects!
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